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View Full Version : Settings for Canon 5D (mk1) // Canon EF 50mm 1.8 mkII on NN3 mkII



eighter
01-11-2013, 06:45 AM
Hi,
thanx for your help
i'm looking for settings for Canon 5D (mk1) // Canon EF 50mm 1.8 mkII on NN3 mkII.
regards

John Houghton
01-11-2013, 08:40 AM
See http://wiki.panotools.org/Entrance_Pupil_Database and the Camera Settings page in the support section of the Nodal Ninja web site. Use the settings as a starting point and check with these guides:
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http://www.easypano.com/forum/displa...1&TopicID=4162 (http://www.easypano.com/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=1&TopicID=4162)
http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm
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John

eighter
01-11-2013, 06:23 PM
thanks for that good start !
hope to encounter people with exact settings.
regards

hindenhaag
01-12-2013, 02:15 AM
To give you a little help with your starting points have a look to this site:

http://wiki.panotools.org/Entrance_Pupil_Database

Check H for your camera body : H=42, add 13mm for offset NN3 vertical rail to reference point : 55 for LRS = Lower Rail Setting.

5D L1 = 37.5, add L2 for your lens. 50mm /f1.4 for example = 17.5. L1 + L2 gives you URS = Upper Rail Setting of 85mm. Test this with John's links.

http://www.frankvanderpol.nl/fov_pan_calc_fr.htm To calculate your shots around.

Sucess,
Heinz

DennisS
01-12-2013, 08:45 AM
thanks for that good start !
hope to encounter people with exact settings.
regards

Eighter,
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Using other people's numbers is a very good place to start. Relying solely on those numbers without learning how to calibrate your rig is like shooting pictures on full auto mode 100% of the time, never learning to adjust your camera.
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A pano head is one of the tools we use. You need to learn how to make adjustments in order to get the most out of it.
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Once I was on a trip to Yosemite and found I had forgotten to pack the lens I always use. I had a second lens with me that would work, but I had never used it on my pano head before. Since I understood how to adjust my pano head, I was able to go through the calibration exercise and get the panorama. I did not have my laptop with me to do any test stitches. I relied on Live View. The resulting panorama turned out just fine. If I was not able to calibrate my rig "in the field" I would not have been able to take any panoramas from that trip.
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Dennis

eighter
01-14-2013, 12:05 AM
Hi Denis,

Thanx for your answer, that's exactly what i was thinkin'.

But having almost accurate starting point is sometime a way not to lose some precious time.
BTW, i know some methodes to calibrate camera/lens with my NN3 mkII but what is the one you're using guys ?

please tell me.

thanks in advance,

regards

hindenhaag
01-14-2013, 04:14 AM
The links John has send to you.

Smooth's circle saw method, and John's methods to find upper rail settings.

It was often checked that just focussing down gives different results from Smooth's method. Using smooth's method, you end up with a stitched picture. That means, having stitched the pics PTGui has corrected "misalignements" of lens optics and very small sensor misplacement during production. That's why most of us use this method to find the lower rail setting.

Because I know of differences in camera lens combinations, I also advice newbies to check the own equipment. I also agree, that you have to be able to calibrate on your own.
To avoid frustration doing it completely on your own, I try to help you with starting set ups. I believe this brings you on the road as quick as possible. I know that everybody is willing to go out to shoot than to spend lot of time to calibrate. without succeeding.

Regards,
Heinz

eighter
01-15-2013, 11:55 PM
thank you all.
regards,