View Full Version : Is the NN4 steady enough for Canon 5DMKII+Grip?
05-16-2012, 07:34 PM
Hi! We are planning to order panoheads for two different cameras. We will use them to shoot 360x180 HDR's.
First camera is a Canon EOS 60D + Samyang 8mm Fisheye (+ Canon 17-85mm zoom).
Second camera is a Canon 5DMKII with grip + Sigma Fisheye (+ other wideangle lenses).
We have been recommended the NN4 with RD16 for both camera setups, but the 5DMKII user is still not sure... Is the Nodal Ninja 4 steady/stabil enough for use with both camera setups or will we need the Ultimate-solution for the 5DMKII? We will need one panohead for each camera in any case, my question is only if the NN4 with RD16 will work for both.
Looking forward to hear yours and/or any user recommendations. Thanks!
05-16-2012, 08:55 PM
NN4 is strong enough for almost all DSLRS with wide angle lenses.
05-16-2012, 11:27 PM
Hi Nick, thanks for your quick reply. So, with a camera like the 5DMKII, is there no risk that the multirow-arm will start sliding downwards or that the NN4 gets unsteady and loose calibration between shots when shooting brackets (the rotator part or the multirow screw mount)?
What focal lengths can be used with the 5DMKII without pushing the panohead to far?
The next level up, the Ultimate serie, is way more expensive, but if those panoheads are a better choice for this camera then we will need to consider those instead. At the same time, we don't want a heavier equipment than needed.
I just want some info to show my colleague so that he can stop worrying and make a decision. Thanks again! :)
05-17-2012, 01:00 AM
NN4 and M1 Upper Rotators use a sort of "teeth system". You can compare this with the fingers of your hands. Slide the fingers of your left hand into the gaps between the fingers of your right hand down to the bottom of the gaps. Try to turn the fingers around, they can not be turned because they are fixed. Trying to place one finger to the next gap, you have to take the hands apart and set the finger to the next gap. So using the upper rail at different pitches, you open up the upper rotator to set the "teeth free" to move to another gap. Then close the rotator. Because of the "Tooth System", the upper rail can not slide out of its place, so no reason at all to be afraid the upper rail would slide out of position.
Because of the new construction of the NN4 and M1 upper rotator, the knob must not be closed hard to keep the upper rail in place. Just open up till you feel the rotator teeth are set free to be moved to another gap. The knob then is used to replace the "Tooth System" in end position. Like your fingers to the end of the gap between the fingers of your hand. So no need to fix the knob very hard. This will only brake the knob. The older upper rotators don't have this tooth system, they use the grip of two flat surfaces. In this case the knob is used to press the flat surfaces to avoid sliding. But this is a complete different system. Users being common with NN3 NN5 panoheads, often tend to set too much pressure to the upper rotators knob of NN4 or M1 Systems. Hard pressure is not necessary.
Using bracketing, does not have an effect to the stability of the upper rotator or different parts inside the system itself. Depending on your camera-lens combination fixed to a panohead and the stability of your tripod, there might be "micro movements" shooting for example and 7 pics bracketing set in high speed continuos shooting mode of your camera. Nikon CH mode for example. In between shots, normally the mirror inside your camera is moved up and down. This might cause micro movements of the camera system. So either shoot in CL mode = Continuos low speed mode, or use "mirror up" possibility of canon bodies. In this case the mirror is moved once at the beginning of the bracketing set shots and at its end. So there are no mirror movements in between the bracketing set shots. This means no micro movements. I am a Nikonian, but I think Canon has a "Mirror UP" mode that can be used inside Bracketing shots. This is different to Nikon bodies, I have to use Promote System to get a "Mirror UP" possibility for this. But this is really a deep inside system discussion.
This is no point to tell you to buy an M1 instead of NN4 for the camera lens combinations you like to use at the moment.
Primarily it is the length of the upper, lower, and vertical length of the rails you need for your own camera-lens combinations you like to use plus the lenses you might buy in the future asking for different length of settings. NN4 uses shorter rails compared with M1.
Right now, NN4 will serve for both of your systems. But it might be a good choice to get two different models, NN4 and M1-L. M1-L will give you the possibility to use longer lenses like a 70-200mm lens without buying a new panohead. It is a little bit more weight you have to carry around with the M1,
but it offers different decisions for lenses in the future and has some highlights like self centered click system with the new camera plates and in the future self centered NPP settings on the upper rail.
Sorry for a longer comment, but a basic decision depends on the users own decisions and wishes about what he likes to do. Real Estate, Outdoors, fisheye or long lenses, Gigapixel, etc.
So now it is your turn to make a decision. Feel free to ask.
05-17-2012, 03:33 AM
Thanks for the explanation Heinz! Then we'll go for the NN4, don't think we will ever shoot panos using a 200mm lens. Thanks for your answers!
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