Sigma 8mm lens ring with Ultimate R1 focus ring movable? [Archive] - Nodal Ninja Forum

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etegration
08-08-2011, 11:52 AM
With the lens ring attached, is the focus ring on the lens movable? say, i want to manual focus:confused1:

DennisS
08-08-2011, 05:27 PM
Yes. The focus ring does move freely. If you want to lock it down, you need to use tape of some sort to build up the thikness of the focus ring. I leave mine open since I use the lens for pictures other than panoramas.

etegration
08-09-2011, 01:03 AM
Yes. The focus ring does move freely. If you want to lock it down, you need to use tape of some sort to build up the thikness of the focus ring. I leave mine open since I use the lens for pictures other than panoramas.

Thanks Dennis. Ordered one!

360texas
08-10-2011, 07:26 AM
R1 comes with various ring types - using the new Canon 8 -15 fisheye which ring clamp are you using ? Does new canon fisheye fit the Sigma 8mm Fisheye ring ?

hindenhaag
08-10-2011, 11:53 PM
I do not think so, cause the canon lens has two outstanding knobs on the lens plus each ring is specially made for a type of lens. Fixing to parts of it's body wheere it may be fixed to which is not moving or causing damage.

As often mentioned, Nick will make one as soon as he has the lens in his hands.

Heinz

etegration
08-22-2011, 06:55 AM
switching from auto focus to manual will mean having to loosen then tightening the rings. it's kinda cumbersome or am i doing it wrong?

hindenhaag
08-22-2011, 07:30 AM
I you like to switch you have to find the point while tightening the lens ring where the lens itself is fixed, but focus ring is moveable. Mine is fixed when I can still move the focus ring manually. This does not work with autofocus. When I want to use autofocus, the lens ring turns on the lens as well.

Normally we use a fixed focus and tape the lens as well so that the focus ring does not move. Mine does not work in a set up that the lens ring is fixed to the lens and the autofocus does work. Autofocus only works when the lens ring is loose as well.

It's Sigma 8mm/f3.5 for Nikon.

Regards,
Heinz

etegration
08-22-2011, 08:05 AM
I you like to switch you have to find the point while tightening the lens ring where the lens itself is fixed, but focus ring is moveable. Mine is fixed when I can still move the focus ring manually. This does not work with autofocus. When I want to use autofocus, the lens ring turns on the lens as well.

Normally we use a fixed focus and tape the lens as well so that the focus ring does not move. Mine does not work in a set up that the lens ring is fixed to the lens and the autofocus does work. Autofocus only works when the lens ring is loose as well.

It's Sigma 8mm/f3.5 for Nikon.

Regards,
Heinz

dont really get you. i'm using sigma 8mm, f/3.5 for Canon. From the pictures i can find, it seems that the nodal ninja ring is not suppose to go over the focusing ring of the lens.

hindenhaag
08-22-2011, 08:26 AM
http://www.nodalninja.com/Manuals/R1_QRG.pdf

Have a look to the manual further down, you find Sigma8. The last part of the inner ring is covering a part of the focus ring.

Heinz

nick fan
08-22-2011, 08:49 AM
The pros will advise you to use MF all the time. Set F-number to F8. Use live view to test the best focus distance from 0.5-1m on the scale. tape it or mark a line on the lens barrel that is not hidden by the lens ring. Only if your are making close up panos or using larger F-number do you need to change the focus distance. In any case, MF is preferred.

nick

etegration
08-22-2011, 06:28 PM
The pros will advise you to use MF all the time. Set F-number to F8. Use live view to test the best focus distance from 0.5-1m on the scale. tape it or mark a line on the lens barrel that is not hidden by the lens ring. Only if your are making close up panos or using larger F-number do you need to change the focus distance. In any case, MF is preferred.

nick

i see. Would prefer to be able to switch to AF or MF whenever needed but maybe that's another product line like the NN180...

Anyway, thanks!

hindenhaag
08-23-2011, 04:35 AM
The only thing I can imagine: you have to grind out the inner front part of the inner lens ring which comes on top of focus ring. You can not cut off the whole part because you will loose the reference point for the outer ring.

That way you would get the focus ring free to autofocus as well.

Heinz

DennisS
08-23-2011, 10:09 AM
I have the Sigma 8mm f3.5 lens and the correct lens ring clamp for Nikon. Even though the picture shows the ring extending out onto the focus ring, mine does auto focus just fine. The ring does NOT clamp down onto the focus ring. Canon may be different. The only mod I made was to machine a window into the ring clamp so I could see the focus scale.

etegration
10-28-2011, 08:33 PM
i see. Would prefer to be able to switch to AF or MF whenever needed but maybe that's another product line like the NN180...

Anyway, thanks!

i also notice at least for me with the sigma 8mm and 5DMK2, with the lens ring attached, removing the lens from the camera body is quite hard. it leaves a very small clearence for your thumb to go in to press the lens release button on the camera body.

To sum it up:

1. Can the ring be made "thinner" without loosing grip to the lens in turn the camera body then to the R10?
2. I prefer to leave the ring on the lens all the time. Removing it, reattaching it only seem to be subjected to wear and tear.
3. Hope to be able to see where i am lining up my shots. Pro or not, i dont really care. I know what i need and at my last paid shoot for a hotel chain. I reverted to my nodal ninja 3. I just need to know what distance i am focusing at. At f/10, i want to know and i want to know all the time.

i hate to bring up names but other brands seem to be able to have a smaller/ thinner ring. At the expense of sturdiness? or over the weight of the camera used (no full body cams like the 1D series)?

nick fan
10-28-2011, 11:39 PM
i also notice at least for me with the sigma 8mm and 5DMK2, with the lens ring attached, removing the lens from the camera body is quite hard. it leaves a very small clearence for your thumb to go in to press the lens release button on the camera body.

To sum it up:

1. Can the ring be made "thinner" without loosing grip to the lens in turn the camera body then to the R10?
2. I prefer to leave the ring on the lens all the time. Removing it, reattaching it only seem to be subjected to wear and tear.
3. Hope to be able to see where i am lining up my shots. Pro or not, i dont really care. I know what i need and at my last paid shoot for a hotel chain. I reverted to my nodal ninja 3. I just need to know what distance i am focusing at. At f/10, i want to know and i want to know all the time.

i hate to bring up names but other brands seem to be able to have a smaller/ thinner ring. At the expense of sturdiness? or over the weight of the camera used (no full body cams like the 1D series)?

Lens ring for Sigma 8mm for Canon should have plenty of clearance from the camera. Check if you ring is installed at the proper anchor point.
http://www.nodalninja.com/Manuals/R1_QRG.pdf

You can mark the focus distances on other area of the lens, not covered by the lens .


Fanotec lens ring clamps are built with special attention to the safety of lens.

Features and Highlights

Plastic insert is placed between the outer metal ring and the lens. It is contoured to fit the lens and hence increase area of contact.
Large clamping area to reduce stress on the lens barrel, reducing the risk of damaging the lens.
Mounted close to the camera to reduce stress on the lens due to gravity of camera body
Rolling the camera/lens in any position including the popular 0, 60 and 90 degree positions
Index marks for every 90 degrees in the front and every 30 degrees at the back for easy alignment of roll of lens.
Permanently mounted to lens, making reproducible mounting possible, and much quicker to setup.
Compact and light weight

note: improper use of lens ring clamp may cause stress and damage to the lens. Manufacturer is not responsible for damage to the lens due to use of lens ring mount.

etegration
10-29-2011, 08:17 AM
Lens ring for Sigma 8mm for Canon should have plenty of clearance from the camera. Check if you ring is installed at the proper anchor point.
http://www.nodalninja.com/Manuals/R1_QRG.pdf

You can mark the focus distances on other area of the lens, not covered by the lens .


Fanotec lens ring clamps are built with special attention to the safety of lens.

Features and Highlights

Plastic insert is placed between the outer metal ring and the lens. It is contoured to fit the lens and hence increase area of contact.
Large clamping area to reduce stress on the lens barrel, reducing the risk of damaging the lens.
Mounted close to the camera to reduce stress on the lens due to gravity of camera body
Rolling the camera/lens in any position including the popular 0, 60 and 90 degree positions
Index marks for every 90 degrees in the front and every 30 degrees at the back for easy alignment of roll of lens.
Permanently mounted to lens, making reproducible mounting possible, and much quicker to setup.
Compact and light weight

note: improper use of lens ring clamp may cause stress and damage to the lens. Manufacturer is not responsible for damage to the lens due to use of lens ring mount.

Thanks for replying nick. Transparent material on the part where the indicators are maybe? marking the lens is as good as damanging the lens.

nick fan
10-29-2011, 08:38 AM
Thanks for replying nick. Transparent material on the part where the indicators are maybe? marking the lens is as good as damanging the lens.


You can just mark some dots on the focus ring. if you don't like marking, you can use some high quality label or tape.

Nick

DennisS
10-29-2011, 10:16 AM
Thanks for replying nick. Transparent material on the part where the indicators are maybe? marking the lens is as good as damanging the lens.

Adding a clear plastic window to the ring will make the cost go way up. Impossible if you want to keep the cost down. I was able to machine a window simply because I have access to the machinery and know how to machine parts.

Damaging the lens? Hardly. A small dot of white paint or some tape is very far from damaging the lens. Nick is not suggesting taking a file or drill to your lens. A simple mark of some sort will work.

hindenhaag
10-29-2011, 11:41 AM
A clear plastic window won't be useful besides extra work and costs in case we want to turn the lens to another set up to reach full coverage of the scene on R1/R10.

So the best and easiest way would be to take a tape or a white mark.

Heinz

etegration
10-29-2011, 09:55 PM
Adding a clear plastic window to the ring will make the cost go way up. Impossible if you want to keep the cost down. I was able to machine a window simply because I have access to the machinery and know how to machine parts.



do post some pics Dennis. Wanna see how your machined one look please.

DennisS
10-30-2011, 10:13 AM
Nikon 10.5 ring mount:

http://www.dlsphoto.net/NodalNinjaForum/Nikon105Window.jpg

Sigma 8mm ring mount:

http://www.dlsphoto.net/NodalNinjaForum/Sigma8Window.jpg

A hand drill and a file would give you the same effect. Although not as clean as milling, it would work.

I had discussions with Nick way back when I did this mod. He helped me understand how cost prohibitive this would be to put into production.

Vincèn
10-30-2011, 10:16 AM
I had discussions with Nick way back when I did this mod. He helped me understand how cost prohibitive this would be to put into production.
Shame it's so expensive in production because result is really nice :)

Vincèn

nick fan
10-30-2011, 10:44 AM
Shame it's so expensive in production because result is really nice :)

Vincèn

It is expensive to add one more face of machining.
More importantly, each window is customized to a particular lens. That will greatly increase the number of lens rings. Beside some people may want to use different roll angles, eg 30/60 deg to put the sensor diagonal vertical, or 90 deg to use the camera in portrait mode on NN Ult M1. All these means huge number of options to make and thus increase our cost greatly.
Considering the ease and effectiveness of markings/ labeling on lens, I don't think it is worthy to do so. We only use 1-2 focus distances. So 1+2 points will suffice.
You know what, expert/ professional photographers use lots of labeling on their equipments. Doing so will only raise your image as a professional pano-photographer.
Of course, in a group of pano-photographers using our lens rings, Dennis will just reveal his professionalism. True Pros always have some custom made equipments and trade secrets that the average do not have or know. :th_wink:


Nick

DennisS
10-30-2011, 10:58 AM
Nick,

What would be your "best guess" be at a price to do this piece by piece? I know that there are set up costs and other considerations (do you want to dedicate a manual mill just for the purpose of cutting out windows?) associated with anything custom. Would people be willing to pay $250 or more for an extra non refundable service fee just for the window cut out? Look at the price 360 gets for their "one off" stuff.

Dennis

Vincèn
10-30-2011, 10:59 AM
It is expensive to add one more face of machining.
More importantly, each window is customized to a particular lens. That will greatly increase the number of lens rings. Beside some people may want to use different roll angles, eg 30/60 deg to put the sensor diagonal vertical, or 90 deg to use the camera in portrait mode on NN Ult M1. All these means huge number of options to make and thus increase our cost greatly.
Considering the ease and effectiveness of markings/ labeling on lens, I don't think it is worthy to do so. We only use 1-2 focus distances. So 1+2 points will suffice.
You know what, expert/ professional photographers use lots of labeling on their equipments. Doing so will only raise your image as a professional pano-photographer.
Thanks for explanations :) Aside of the cost of production, it looks way too complicated as you would need so many different rings :th_woot:

Vincèn

nick fan
10-30-2011, 11:24 AM
Nick,

What would be your "best guess" be at a price to do this piece by piece? I know that there are set up costs and other considerations (do you want to dedicate a manual mill just for the purpose of cutting out windows?) associated with anything custom. Would people be willing to pay $250 or more for an extra non refundable service fee just for the window cut out? Look at the price 360 gets for their "one off" stuff.

Dennis

It is difficult to estimate the extra cost in order to manage this custom order. My factory is messy enough now.
If the item goes through resellers, I am sure it will cause them lots of mess as well. Direct shipping to customers will increase the shipping cost and delivery time.
The large number of complaints of the custom pano head manufacturer is not without reasons, apart from personal characters. It is simply too exhaustive to manage small custom orders, esp when the production workflow goes through many contractors. The whole process may take more than a month!
You know what, many firms are not willing to take my small orders even if I pay much more. It is simply too exhaustive for their managers.
I'd rather spend my limited time and resources on new product development. New product development is an investment that may bring lots of returns. Custom order is just a production and transaction, as you said "one off" stuff. It won't bring us much future returns.

Nick

etegration
11-01-2011, 10:37 PM
http://www.dlsphoto.net/NodalNinjaForum/Nikon105Window.jpg


beautiful!

etegration
11-01-2011, 10:39 PM
Would people be willing to pay $250 or more for an extra non refundable service fee just for the window cut out?

Hope i'm not too blunt, that price can get "the other" panoramic head with no cutting needed.

DennisS
11-01-2011, 11:17 PM
Hope i'm not too blunt, that price can get "the other" panoramic head with no cutting needed.

You are being direct and to the point. As a consumer you need to decide what equipment fills your needs. If there is nothing on the market you either do without or fabricate it. If the "other" pano head does what you want, go buy it. You are also buying a certain level of support both before and after the sale. I am fortunate that I have the tools and skills necessary to make just about anything I need. My cost is some scrap metal, hardware and my time. This is not rocket science. Anything (within reason) that holds the camera in the correct postition is doing its job. If you cannot cut out the window, use some paint or tape. Low tech fix.

DennisS
11-01-2011, 11:27 PM
beautiful!
Actually, if you take a close look I am off center vertically by about .030". That's the perfectionist in my speaking out.

etegration
05-20-2013, 01:44 AM
took a long time but it's cut...

910