View Full Version : Canon 8-15mm fisheye data

08-04-2011, 03:27 AM
Does anybody have the numbers on the the Canon 8-15mm fisheye lens (http://www.dpreview.com/news/1008/10082616canon8mm15mm.asp)?

And if not, then what procedures and documenting are recommended in my
taking such measurements to add to the Entrance Pupil Database (http://wiki.panotools.org/Entrance_Pupil_Database)
and then updating the nodalninja Camera and lens settings page (http://www.nodalninja.com/support/camerasettings.html) ?

I have plans to try it on my EOS 40D and NN5 head.

Thank you for any reply.


08-04-2011, 04:39 AM
Hi and welcome to the forum,


for lower rail setting. If the "tooth of the circle saw" cuts to the right, you have to move the camera to the right looking through viewfinder. If it cuts to the left, move to the left mm by mm. At least you should have 3 sets for example: LRS 54 cuts to the right, 55 has no teeth at all, 56 cuts to the left. 55 will be your lower rail setting.
This method is because of the workflow more exact than simply to focus down to the logo and and center the focus ring to the middle. This helps for the first orientation. Use for example f22, go down to -15, focus to the rotator, and take the shots around. The easiest workflow is to take a set of three settings in one go, 54, 55, 56 before importing the pictures to the computer and PTGui Pro to stitch them. Import, align, go to "advanced", "optimizer" and set "heavy and lens shift". This is default in the new beta version of PTGuipro. After optimizing use "Control points" of the top tab and click "delete the worst control points".

In Create panorama check the panorama settings and set them to 360 x 180. In "create" use ".mov" as output setting. Open up the mov file, move down to the nadir and check the rotator. you can easily zoom in to check it more exactly. Once you are used to this workflow, it is easy to do and you get a better result than just using the logo.


for upper rails setting. @ zoom 8 I would start on or near the red ring and move slowly backwards.


08-04-2011, 04:42 AM
Hello Hindenhaag,

I'm familiar with the thread, but there's no discussion about the Canon 8-15 at that page.


08-04-2011, 05:41 AM
Yes of course cause it is a very new lens and only a few people have got it in their hands till now.


08-04-2011, 05:44 AM
Hi Heinz,

Yes - a very exciting time and will be fun experimenting with when it arrives :)

I'll let you know my results.


08-04-2011, 06:09 AM
Hi Kelly,

would be nice. Cause I am a Nikonian. I can test Nikon Equipment. But I have little chance to get my hand on Canon equipment.

My offer to all dutch new Canon Nodal Ninja Users: you may come to see me, I can show you how to find the upper and lower rail settings for NN panoheads from NN3 MKII, NN4, NN5, M1, to R1. Inclusive Nadir Adapter use with hard- and software. You may test the Pole System and I can give you some info about the use of PTGuiPro Software to get a good result from a brilliant hardware and software. For nothing, for me it helps to get a certified new database for Canon NN Users for the new models. Just send an IM. Bring your camera and lens, a USB stick and on we go.


09-22-2011, 04:59 PM
I am also interested in theses settings when someone finds out what they are.

Bill Libecap

09-23-2011, 01:03 AM
You might be interested in reading this post:

LPP Nadir Study EF 8-15mm Fisheye (http://panocea.us/2011/08/14/lpp-nadir-study-ef-8-15mm-fisheye/)


Thaler Design GmbH
10-16-2011, 04:00 PM
Could anybody tell me the NPP setting for the Canon 8-15 on an R10 @ 7.5 up 4 shots @ 12.5mm.
On the M1 that I tested with the Canon 8-15 on an 5D MII I had the following setting:
Lower rail 169mm
Upper rail 110.5mm @ 7.5 up.
The point is at the front edge of the lens hood mount.
See this > http://michel.thoby.free.fr/Canon_8-15mm/8-15mm_review.html#NoParallaxPoint

Thaler Design GmbH
10-21-2011, 05:08 PM
After spending a lot of time with trial and error shooting I’m at 11mm with the R10-7.5. It’s not perfect as my
M1 settings yet. If there are extremely close by object there are still minor shifts in the stitching zone.

10-31-2011, 09:53 AM
I just receive the new lens ring for this lens, and trying it directly using Fanotec P1 Pole + R1, shot using 5D mark II @ ISO 2500


My settings was at 1.85mm @ 5 tilt. The pole was only extended half way until eye level (since i do the test it inside my house..:D).

Some very2 minor errors are barely visible at he ceiling edge above the picture frame above the piano and also at the ceiling near the pillar (directly above the trash bin)...quick touch up at image editor will solve this. And I think if I do the test outdoor with the pole fully extended and all objects are >4 meter away.....I might have a perfect stitch.

Anyone got similar or better data to compare with?

Thank you

John Houghton
11-01-2011, 03:05 AM
Riefa, I make the setting 1.7 (or 17mm) with the R1 on a sturdy tripod (4 shots around, +5 tilt). Setup on a pole isn't usually very critical.


02-07-2012, 10:19 AM
We currently use a Canon 5d, Sigma 8 and a NN R1.

I have not yet seen a close up pic of the Canon 8-15mm fisheye lens mounted on a NN R1. I have heard that if the NN R1 ring is centered over the focus window and switch [zoom lock and AF/MF] area that the focus and zoom rings turn freely.

So does this mean that it will be difficult to turn the focus ring to find the lens mark for hyperfocal [HF] distance value when readjusting from 8mm to 15mm zoom ?

After locking the lens in the ring and calibrating the HF for 8mm and f/8, how can you set the HF point for 15mm? Or does it matter ? Just set it up for f/8 @ 8mm and leave it even if you might zoom to 15mm ?

I would like to talk off forum with other 5d /8-15mm fisheye users about their experiences.

thanks in advance

email dave at 360texas.com
Skype contact iam360texas

John Houghton
02-08-2012, 05:56 AM
Dave. Here is a photo of the Canon 8-15mm lens on a 5DII mounted on an R1:


It's true that the focus scale is hidden by the ring. I normally have the focus ring taped in position and I don't tend to shoot at different zoom settings. If you don't want to live with a fixed focus setting, then it's probably best to auto focus on something at the HF distance. I have the * button on the 5D programmed to auto focus instead of letting the shutter release button do it, so once set, the focus ring will not move unless you manually turn it. In any case, the focus scale on the lens doesn't lend itself to visually setting the HF distance accurately.


02-08-2012, 11:18 AM
Thank you John for your quick reply.. yes this helps alot.

John wrote "I have the * button on the 5D programmed to auto focus instead of letting the shutter release button do it"

[Wokflow? ]Do you have your 8-15mm fisheye lens AF/MF switched on ? And with the internal CFn 4 focus (option 3) is initially toggled OFF. When you need to focus...you <*>ON to focus and <*> OFF again ?

Is the last on/off toggle camera selection is remembered after you have turned the camera off and on again ?

The 5d User manual shows that it has a CFn -04 "option 3" AE/AF no AE lock. This is useful for subjects which keep moving and stopping repeatedly. In the AI Servero AF [autofocus], you can press the <*> button to start or stop the AI Servo AF [autofocus] operation. The exposure is set at the moment the picture is taken. Thus the focusing and exposure will always be at the optimum point as you wait for the decisive moment.

John Houghton
02-08-2012, 03:27 PM
Dave, I have CFn IV-1 set to 3 and CFn IV-2 set to 1. I nearly always use the camera in full manual mode, so I don't use auto exposure. I just press the * button to focus (and the lens needs to be in AF for that to operate). The lens will stay in the current position until * is pressed again. When the lens has the focus ring taped in position, I set the camera to MF and don't press *. I just like to keep things simple.


02-09-2012, 10:52 AM
Thank you Sir.

05-19-2012, 12:09 PM
Thank you Sir.

The way to focus with the * button is called Back-Button-Focussing and is clearly explained here:


I'm using Back-Button-Focussing since a long time and don't wanna miss it anymore. Especially for people and portrait photography it is very useful.

I'm wondering if there ist no update in the R1/R10 instruction manual. The downloadable PDF is from 2009 (!) and so the Canon EF 8-15mm f/4.0 fisheye is not mentioned at all.

This thread is one year old and since then, nobody from Nodal Ninja felt responsible to update the instruction manual. It can't be such a big deal to put in the parameters for the Canon EF 8-15mm fisheye!?!?

I just purchased a NN R1 with the nice new small 90 and 60 Rotators here in Germany and there was no instruction manual at all coming with the gear!

Do I really need to find the settings by using google and different panorama photographer forums around the world?

Come on Nodal Ninja, do your job and update the manual! Or even better, create a seperate one for this zoom lense because it is a little bit tricky and different to my Canon 15mm f/2.8 fisheye and my Sigma 8mm f/3.5 fisheye.

I'm not sure that it is a goof idea to hide all buttons inside of the ring!?

Anyway, please publish some more informations about using a NN R1/R10 and the (not so new anymore) Canon EF 8-15mm fisheye!

Sorry for my low level english but it is not my native language.


nick fan
05-19-2012, 08:08 PM
Hi Andreas,

Sorry for the missing manual. we are working on some of the overdue manuals now.
for the NPP value, you can determine it quickly by following this tutorial.


06-12-2012, 12:19 AM
Allright...I've just recently bought the Canon Ef 8-15 and found this link with the NNP of the lens by surfing in internet:


I was recommended to go for 15 mm on my lens on the full frame body (5d mark2) for better resolution...This means shooting more frames but must be worth...English is not my native language I just wanted to check if I understood the link above right...On 15 mm when I take as the NNP the green big dot marked with "4 shots (practically valid for the whole 8-15 mm focal range)" I cannot do wrong...Am I right?

John Houghton
06-12-2012, 01:05 AM
At zoom setting 15mm, you shoot 6 shots around, so use the NPP position identified on Michel's picture as "6-shots". It only takes a few minutes to check that this works ok. See the tutorial at the link that Nick referred you to.

06-13-2012, 02:03 AM
At zoom setting 15mm, you shoot 6 shots around, so use the NPP position identified on Michel's picture as "6-shots". It only takes a few minutes to check that this works ok. See the tutorial at the link that Nick referred you to.

John thank you very much...

06-24-2012, 07:32 PM
This is one frustrating lens!! You have to watch all the time that focussing has not moved by just a fraction or everythig is fuzzy. The limiter is pointless in my opinion, it could better be a lock on the focus ring.
I first focussed the lens by test-firing from my laptop, with the camera simply mounted on a tripod so I could make any changes needed. I then taped up the focus ring, switched to MF then connected the lens to the R1.
I set the LPP first by looking at vertical lines far apart from each other, but in line with the camera. Now I swivelled the camera within the outer ring to 60 degrees from horizontal (so the diagonaly opposite corners of the image are vertical). Taking 6 shots around plus a manual shot of the nadir. results so far...the 6 shots stitch well with the tiniest hole at the zenit, easily healed. The nadir shot usually stitches in, sometimes with a little help in PTGui.
Thanks to articles from Michel Thorby and also Roger Berry for the diagonal trick.

Thaler Design GmbH
07-07-2012, 03:34 AM
I tried hard all day with my new 5D M III and the 8-15. I used a R10-7.5 4 shots @ 12,3mm ( right end of the 2 marking ). The nadir setting is 8,5mm. It is very important to set the crop circle perfect in PTGui, then there is no misalignment even with very close-by objects. I tryed the new HDR function too with +/- 1 EV. A flash-pano can be seen here > http://www.panoweb.at > Test - Canon 5D MIII + 8-15 Fisheye HDR +/- 1EV

John Houghton
07-07-2012, 06:56 AM
It is very important to set the crop circle perfect in PTGui, then there is no misalignment even with very close-by objects.
I'm not sure what you mean by "perfect". The crop circle positioning should not make any appreciable difference to the quality of the alignment if you are optimizing correctly in PTGui. I've verified that this is so by shifting the crop circle so that it is far from being centered, and it has no effect whatever on either the optimization report or the the stitched panorama. The alignment is identical.

07-07-2012, 10:53 AM
John, I guess he has not learned about shift yet. In theory a perfect crop circle set at the exact edge should make optimizing for shift unnecessary. But as you say the cropcircle does not at all need to be centered if you optimize for shift.

John Houghton
07-07-2012, 01:34 PM
In theory a perfect crop circle set at the exact edge should make optimizing for shift unnecessary.
The edge of the image circle is in any case not well defined, so it's not really practical to set the crop circle accurately just by eye. However, after optimizing the shift parameters their values can be added to the crop circle parameters, which centers the crop on the optical centre of the lens. Subsequent optimization then yields shift parameters <1.