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scropp
07-17-2010, 03:38 PM
Hi Everyone,

Since upgrading my camera from my old faithful 300d to an all singing all dancing 7d, I have not had a chance to make use of my trusty NN3, and I was dismayed today to discover that there are no settings on this site for the 7d at all!

Are there any settings that people have already calculated for the 7d or am I going to have to work them out for myself?

I tried doing a search for this on the forum, but apparently 7d is too short a word to search on. :(

Thanks,

Stephen

hindenhaag
07-18-2010, 01:24 AM
Hi,

have a look to this: http://www.nodalninja.com/forum/showthread.php?4007-Canon-7D-Nodal-Ninja-5-Tokina-10-17mm-setting-not-clear-to-me&p=31057#post31057

Heinz

badders
07-18-2010, 02:26 AM
I've got the 7D. What lens are you using?

scropp
07-18-2010, 09:49 AM
Hi Heinz, thanks for the link, I will see how much further I get on now :)

Andrew, I am quite a novice at this pano lark, and the widest lens I have is the kit lens that I got with my camera (18-135).

hindenhaag
07-18-2010, 02:21 PM
Hi Scropp,

Zoom set to 18mm:

You have to go for 4 rows, detend plunger set to 30 , makes 12 stops.

The settings are calculated with an overlap of 30%.

Now your upper rail sets in "Pitch", which means turn the upper rail up or down.

1. row 55
2. row 20
3. row -15
4. row -50

To this you have to shoot a zenith at +90 and 2 shots with -90 with nadir adaptor, or 3 with handheld.

Using the nadir adaptor on NN3 you have to subtract 6 mm of your LRS = lower rail setting.

BTW: trying to find your NPP: turning your camera to a direction and the reference point follows you up, imagine a person walking aside of you. To keep in contact moving forward, you have to walk forward: move the camera forward. The reference point is moving against the turning direction, the person is not walking with you, it is passing by, to keep in contact you have to walk backwards.

"walking with you" = camera forward, "walking against you" = camera backwards.

LRS = lower rail setting: hacksaw tooth is cutting to the left, move the camera to the left. Hacksaw tooth cutting to the right, move the camera to the right. Move the camera to the direction the tooth cuts.

I am Nikonian. But I am quite sure Badders will help you with the settings.

Kit lenses might be a start up to be used for panos. I know all the equipment asks a lot of money.

But to use a kit lens, is not the easiest start to do panos. 4 rows with 12 stops, plus 3 or 4 shots for Z and N might cause a lot of problems in preparing - stitching your pano. People, cars, clouds, trees, water moving around while you take your pictures might end up in a "ghost" pano. This means, when you do your second row there are other people in sight as in the first row. ...

A fisheye lens would be a better start up. A manual Samyang 8mm, a Sigma 8mm - I do not like it so much - or a Nikkor 10.5 with canon adaptor might be a good choice to go on without frustration.

Ask Badders, he will help you. For the rest, feel free to ask.

Sucess

Heinz

hansnyberg
07-19-2010, 02:19 AM
Hi Scropp,

Zoom set to 18mm:

You have to go for 4 rows, detend plunger set to 30 , makes 12 stops.

The settings are calculated with an overlap of 30%.

Now your upper rail sets in "Pitch", which means turn the upper rail up or down.

1. row 55
2. row 20
3. row -15
4. row -50

To this you have to shoot a zenith at +90 and 2 shots with -90 with nadir adaptor, or 3 with handheld.

Using the nadir adaptor on NN3 you have to subtract 6 mm of your LRS = lower rail setting.

BTW: trying to find your NPP: turning your camera to a direction and the reference point follows you up, imagine a person walking aside of you. To keep in contact moving forward, you have to walk forward: move the camera forward. The reference point is moving against the turning direction, the person is not walking with you, it is passing by, to keep in contact you have to walk backwards.

"walking with you" = camera forward, "walking against you" = camera backwards.

LRS = lower rail setting: hacksaw tooth is cutting to the left, move the camera to the left. Hacksaw tooth cutting to the right, move the camera to the right. Move the camera to the direction the tooth cuts.

I am Nikonian. But I am quite sure Badders will help you with the settings.

Kit lenses might be a start up to be used for panos. I know all the equipment asks a lot of money.

But to use a kit lens, is not the easiest start to do panos. 4 rows with 12 stops, plus 3 or 4 shots for Z and N might cause a lot of problems in preparing - stitching your pano. People, cars, clouds, trees, water moving around while you take your pictures might end up in a "ghost" pano. This means, when you do your second row there are other people in sight as in the first row. ...

A fisheye lens would be a better start up. A manual Samyang 8mm, a Sigma 8mm - I do not like it so much - or a Nikkor 10.5 with canon adaptor might be a good choice to go on without frustration.

Ask Badders, he will help you. For the rest, feel free to ask.

Sucess

Heinz

Really Heinz.

You do not need to shoot 4 rows with an 18mm.
3 rows with 12 + 1 zenith is more than enough with a 1.6 APS sensor

If you have a NIkon you can shoot 3x10 and still have 23% overlap which is enough.

Hans

badders
07-19-2010, 08:38 AM
Andrew, I am quite a novice at this pano lark, and the widest lens I have is the kit lens that I got with my camera (18-135).
Set lower arm to 53. The links posted should help you set the upper arm.

scropp
07-19-2010, 09:20 AM
Thanks, I will give it a go as soon as I get the time.

Unfortunately cost is an issue thanks to the current climate. I have been looking into the possibility of hiring an 8mm sigma for a weekend but I want to get some practice in before playing that game.

scropp
07-19-2010, 09:28 AM
Really Heinz.

You do not need to shoot 4 rows with an 18mm.
3 rows with 12 + 1 zenith is more than enough with a 1.6 APS sensor

If you have a NIkon you can shoot 3x10 and still have 23% overlap which is enough.

Hans

I must admit, I used to use 3x10 in the past, and I usually got away with just about enough overlap.


Set lower arm to 53. The links posted should help you set the upper arm.

Great, thanks, I will give it a go :)

stepino
08-23-2010, 04:18 AM
Hi all,
I dont want to create new thread for 7D...

I see that lower arm is suggested to 53, perfect.

What about the upper arm? What type of lenses are you using?

Does anybody know the setting for those lenses:

Sigma 10mm F2.8 HSM fisheye
Tokina 12-24 F4
Canon 17-55 F2,8 IS USM


Thank you,
Stepan

mitchfx
08-23-2010, 04:51 PM
Not to hijack even further, but 7D + Samyang 8mm (aka Rokinon, etc) settings also appreciated :)

scropp
08-23-2010, 04:59 PM
Hi,

I am afraid I don't have any of the lenses you ask about, I wish I did, but the method described in the link at the top of the page worked a treat, and only took a few minutes to get pretty accurate.

Stephen

badders
08-24-2010, 01:52 AM
Not to hijack even further, but 7D + Samyang 8mm (aka Rokinon, etc) settings also appreciated :)
Lower arm is still 53, irrespective of which lens you are using. I've also posted in your other thread the settings for the NN5.

mitchfx
09-18-2010, 07:24 PM
Interesting...I found a lower setting of 58 works for my 7d on the NN3 Mk2, not 53. Could this be due to difference between camera mounting plate thickness (mine is CP-2) ?

Thanks,
m

hindenhaag
09-19-2010, 01:44 AM
Mitch,

the CP-Plates are the same in thickness. With all my info from this forum, I am Nikonian, 58 seems to be a bit off site.

Check your LRS with this: http://www.easypano.com/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=1&TopicID=4162

If the saw cuts to the right, you have to move the camera to the right, if it cuts to the left, to the left. At least you have to test mm by mm.

Regards,

Heinz

Test

mitchfx
09-21-2010, 06:42 PM
I assume the lower rail measurement is read via the inner edge of the upper rail base? I fine tuned it a bit more and am now at 57. Haven't followed the steps in the easypano link yet, but the bullseye mark on the top of the NN rotator is centered in camera viewport exactly if I rotate it around. Used this setting along with 92 for upper rail with the Samyang (Rokinon brand) for a pano shoot on Sunday and stitching in Hugin worked great. No seams or obvious parallax errors.

ruel941
11-17-2010, 07:15 AM
After reading this thread and the links contained within this thread, not to mention referring to this :http://wiki.panotools.org/Entrance_Pupil_Database a few questions came to my mind. I have just upgraded from 400D/Rebel XTi to 7D. I'm using NN3 MkII on an RD-16 with a Canon EF-S 10-22 mounted. First, just curious, why is it the LRS setting for the 7D is pegged at 53mm (51mm for the 400D)? Based on the link provided above, the L1 (center of the tripod mount to the lens base) is shorter in 7D than it is in the 400D (w/ CP-2). Why do you have to move away from the center of the NN3's lower rotator tension knob in spite of the L1 being shorter in 7D? How would I set the upper rail then with the 10-22mm mounted? Thanks in advance.

hindenhaag
11-17-2010, 10:16 AM
Sorry mitch, just saw your answer now. Yes, the long side of the vertical rail has to be placed towards the rotator, the inner edge is the reference point.

There are some more which work with your settings.

Heinz

hindenhaag
11-17-2010, 10:24 AM
Ruel,

you have a problem cause you are making a mistake: LRS setting corresponds to H of the wiki database, plus the CP-2 plus offset of the NN vertical rail. H is 42mm to 35mm. L1 + L2 is important for URS of the camera lens combination.

Depends on your own equipment. Check the LRS with the link mentioned below, start with 53. If it is not right, move mm by mm.

Success,
Heinz

ruel941
11-17-2010, 02:42 PM
Thanks for the clarification Heinz. Now I get it. You're right, the H in 7D is higher as compared to the 400D. Does that mean if i use the 10-22mm set at 10mm the URS should be at least 103.5mm (37.5 + 66mm)? Thanks.

hindenhaag
11-17-2010, 10:55 PM
Ruel,

check this discussions as well: http://www.tawbaware.com/forum2/viewtopic.php?p=31251

Check John's Tutorial as well: http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm

When the reference point moves with turning direction of the camera, you have to go forward on the upper rail, moving against turning direction you have to go backwards. Setting zoom to 10, begin near the front of the lens and then move backwards by 5mm steps. When the direction of reference point changes, move forward mm by mm. To check your NPP, set the pics of it to PS, use layers, second one with 50% opacity, place them exactly top on top, and click on and off to see if the Reference moves or not.

Sucess,
Heinz

ruel941
11-18-2010, 03:10 AM
Ok thanks for the tip, Heinz. It's time to try it out.