View Full Version : NN5 with Canon 7d without grip 10-22mm
06-28-2010, 11:22 PM
I am having problem to have a perfect image comprise of up and down combination with my canon 7d with canon 10-22mm with NN5 and RD 16 at 10mm. My lower setting is 53 and my upper one is at 103. It is very close to perfection but for some reason I cannot find the perfect setting ( a small miss alignment in some areas). Any one care to share their settings? I also welcome your setting for 14mm and 22 mm. Thank you
06-29-2010, 12:32 AM
Your lower plate setting of 53 is spot on. I can't help with the upper arm as I don't have the 10-22mm. But perhaps the issue lies not with the upper rail setting but more with how you are (or are not) assigning control points in your stitching software to fix those small mis-alignment errors.
06-29-2010, 01:37 PM
I trust Badders and I am Nikonian. But I just checked your spherical settings. Did you shoot - 30 % overlap H/V - 8 shots around at 45° with a pitch of +/- 30° , plus +/-90° for Z/N ?
I checked several databases for you but I could not find your lens. If you like, try to send your pics, and I am sure there are people to check it to stitch and try to help you. Where did you shoot? Outdoor, Indoor, what software did you use.
To be in state to try to help you, we need a lot of information about your set up inclusive software.
06-29-2010, 06:40 PM
Thank you for trying to help me. Since this will probably help others in trying to solve this issue, I have put the file and its detail at the link below. I had no issue with my previous set up (canon 40D with 17-40mm or sigma 4.5mm on ninja 3. Indeed the shot was taken at 45degree. 8 shot at -30 8 shot at 0 and 8 shot at 30 with the lens set up at 10mm. I have used the ptgui. The red line indicates the area who pause problem. Where did I made a mistake in the process? I am guessing right now it is my upper rail position
06-30-2010, 12:32 AM
The red line indicates the area who pause problem.
As usual, it is difficult to diagnose the main cause of these stitching errors just by looking at the final image. If you output a psd layered file, it will be easy to check for parallax effects by switching layers off and on in Photoshop. (See http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm). If there is no evidence of parallax shift on the near black rail, for instance, then your problems are likely to be due to poor control of the stitching in PTgui.
Also, it looks like you used auto exposure mode for the shots. Blending will be much easier if you give all the shots the same exposure in manual mode.
01-06-2011, 06:18 AM
Was wondering if you ever found settings that worked? I have the same setup as you. (Canon 7D with the 10-22mm lens)
01-06-2011, 12:09 PM
I rechecked lens databases. Wiki gives you an upper rail set of 103.5. L1 =37,5 + L2 = 66 for zoom @ 10mm. For lower rail check measure H for your camera body. Then you have to add the offset of the vertical NN rail. Mount the CP-2. Set the Upper Rail to -90°. Compare the position of CP-2 to camera surface to the long reference side of the vertical rail. Add this to H. This is your first Lower Rail Set = LRS.
Test this with http://www.easypano.com/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=1&TopicID=4162
When the" tooth of the saw" cuts to the right, you have to move you camera to the right. If it cuts to the left, move to the left, 1mm by 1mm.
For upper rail setting use this: http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm
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