How much of an improvement with NN3? [Archive] - Nodal Ninja Forum

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uvsub
04-17-2008, 07:00 PM
Hi,

I've made many handheld panoramic images using photomerge in CS3, where will I see the biggest improvement by using a Nodal Ninja on a tripod?
Secondly, is NN3 really sturdy enough for the Nikon D300 and a medium lens? Somehow, the unit looks a bit wobbly to me.
Thanks in advance for any response.

nick fan
04-17-2008, 07:28 PM
Hi,

I've made many handheld panoramic images using photomerge in CS3, where will I see the biggest improvement by using a Nodal Ninja on a tripod?
Secondly, is NN3 really sturdy enough for the Nikon D300 and a medium lens? Somehow, the unit looks a bit wobbly to me.
Thanks in advance for any response.



It is a common consensus that a properly calibrated pano head will make the stitching much easier. You will find this in most tutorials and forum discussions. if you are making spherical panos, a pano head is almost a must. if you are making mosaics, a pano head will speed up the shooting a lot and make the stitching easier.
NN3II will work on D300 with small lens. It depends on what do you mean by medium size lens? I would recommend you buy the NN5 is you have not bought the NN3II.


nick

uvsub
04-18-2008, 11:22 PM
Thanks for the reply Nick. I was thinking of using the 70-300mm vr lens.

nick fan
04-19-2008, 01:41 AM
Thanks for the reply Nick. I was thinking of using the 70-300mm vr lens.


you should get the NN5 instead. here is a review from an expert in making high resolution mosaics.
http://www.tawbaware.com/nn5_review.html

nick

Bill Bailey
04-19-2008, 07:00 AM
Hi, I've made many handheld panoramic images using photomerge in CS3, where will I see the biggest improvement by using a Nodal Ninja on a tripod? Secondly, is NN3 really sturdy enough for the Nikon D300 and a medium lens? Somehow, the unit looks a bit wobbly to me.
Thanks in advance for any response.


When doing mosaic or taking images side by side you will always have some parallax. The more distant the objects the lesser the parallax. The critical factor is when you have foreground objects relating to background objects (we live in a 3 dimensional world).
Example - a camera/lens on a standard tripod is like your head (camera) sitting on your neck (tripod) with you eye (lens) sitting out from the rotational axis of your neck.
Hold you thumb about 6 inches from your eye, closing the other eye rotate your head back and forth. You will see the whatever object was located behind your thumb in the background move left to right as you turn your head left to right. This is parallax. The further out you move your thumb the less the parallax.
Our pano brackets are designed to allow for proper rotation so you don't have parallax.
And as Nick pointed out because you would be using the 70-300mm lens the NN5L would be your best choice.